Maillol at Marlborough.(Art)(Critical Essay) New Criterion | December 1, 2004| | COPYRIGHT 2004 Foundation for Cultural Review. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information) Copyright

There are still restaurants in the smaller cities of France where local functionaries and dignitaries lunch every day--places where the regulars have their own napkin rings. There are no surprises in these solid, reassuring establishments. The classic, substantial dishes of la cuisine bourgeoise never change, apart from subtle responses to what is in season. The ingredients are excellent, and everything is prepared with skill and care. There may be a little more butter than current urban taste dictates, but the diner is assured of pleasure and satisfaction.

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