It is a winter evening, sometime after dinner, and you are biking around the back streets of Old Town Key West. Shorts, a T-shirt, and flip-flops are all you need. The air; which was hot and humid a few hours ago, is now balmy and fragrant. The shadowy lane down which you are riding is lined with wooden houses, some tin-roofed and humble, others double-galleried, gingerbread.
Much of the charm of Key West--tiny, flat, set in a spangled sea 150 miles south of Miami--is ...